As we drive down the picturesque Sea to Sky Highway that links Vancouver to the ski resort of Whistler, a towering granite dome comes into view. Known as the Stawamus Chief, this is the second largest granite monolith in the world.

The Chief, as it’s locally known, dominates the landscape and is central to the town that lies at its foot. Thanks to this ancient rock and the mountains that surround the town of Squamish, it has become the outdoor recreation capital of Canada.

“Squamish is an outdoor enthusiasts’ playground,” explains Jess Freese, owner of Sunwolf, a rafting and cabin company based in the town.

 “There’s so much to choose from. On the land you have stunning hikes, mountain biking and rock climbing, and in the water there’s rafting, kayaking and kite boarding – just to name a few of the available activities. It’s a growing community with locally owned eateries, a great brewery, and vibrant arts scene.”

Shannon Falls: Credit Cat Hughes

The climbing is at the level of Yosemite – but without the crowds and camping restrictions. There are highly technical climbs on the sheer granite face of the Chief and plenty of bouldering spots. Check out Squamisclimbing.com for the best routes and up-to-date guide on where to go and where to get equipment.

The hike up the Chief is not for the faint-hearted. After passing Shannon Falls – a spectacular waterfall with its hordes of photo-taking Chinese tourists – you will pass a sign stating how difficult the hike is. Take heed: Your climb is aided by ladders and chains – and for those who relish a challenging hike, it’s like an adults playground. There are three peaks, each with their own unique view of the Howe Sound and the surrounding mountains.

The first peak – heavily populated by ever-hungry chipmunks – gives you, on a clear day, a spectacular view of the blue waters of the Sound and the jagged mountain peaks capped with glaciers. Make it to the second peak and the view to the North opens up, where you can see ancient volcanos. Once you’ve reached the second peak, the third peak is a doddle. On your way there you can stand at the top of the sheer granite cliff and, if you are so inclined, look down. Not many people make it to the third peak – so its much quieter and you will see miles upon miles of rainforest.

For the descent you can either go back the way you came, or take Upper Shannon Falls Trail – a path through a rocky canyon, with trees stretching up hundreds of meters above your head. You could not be blamed for thinking you’d walked on the set for Jurassic Park. Its beauty, however, hides a tough decent. Your knees will most likely hurt by the end.

Squamish, unlike Whistler, is a blue-collar town. The logging industry is the reason for its existence, and once the logging disappeared, the climbers and mountain bikers came, giving the town a new lease of life. While many people drive through Squamish or stop only to grab a coffee on their way to Whistler, the hardcore mountain bikers and climbers make Squamish their destination.

Another creature that makes their way to Squamish in their thousands is bald eagles. They come in the winter ready for the salmon run and the Squamish River watershed provides safe roosting spots. Sunwolf – a company that have cabins on the bank of the confluence of the Cheakamus and Cheekeye River – offer eagle floats from December to mid-February. Their cabins, located in a clearing in the woods, are beautifully decorated and secluded.

“Brackendale, Squamish, holds the world record for the most bald eagles counted in one day, at over 3,700,” says Freese.

“With our rafting tour we have the opportunity to show guests these magnificent birds from the unique view point of the river. It’s almost magical to float down the gentle water with the eagles soaring above you or perched in the trees, scanning for salmon.”

From June to September Sunwolf specialize in white-water rafting trips on Class IV rivers, and so you don’t get hungry, they throw in a gourmet salmon dinner on a private island. It sounds blissful, until you remember you have to paddle through near-continuous white-water to get to it. For the less adventurous, or for families (you have to weigh over 90lb to go white-water rafting on Class IV at Sunwolf), you can take on the calmer rapids of the Cheakamus River and take in the beauty of British Columbia.

Best Pub: Howe Sound Brewery

Best Beer: Devils Elbow IPA

Best Chicken Wings: The Shady Tree

For more information on mountain biking go to: www.sorca.ca

 You can hire bouldering mats at the Hive Bouldering Centre in Vancouver.